Your Way to The Light

You want to convert your light on energy-saving LED lighting? Learn how it works and what you should consider this in detail.
No fear of “Jargon”: On this page I will tell you as easy as possible as you make the transition from power-guzzling incandescent or halogen lamps to More efficient LED lighting. Finally, I started a few years ago as a complete LED lay and am not a real “expert” until today. With only 20 rows or without strange words like’ Color rendering index’ or ‘luminous flux’ is not about though. They are then but blue in color and link to detailed blog posts that they tell you (I hope) understandable.

Your Way to The Light


The good news first: LED light will rapidly cheaper overall better and more efficiently – of course with some exceptions. Although you need to afford still power saving ; It is many but considerably lighter than even last year. Even ordinary goods is not a luxury for “Earners” with prices around 5 euros (in summer 2014) more. And this eliminates the often also need to operate for the first time at the cheaper compact fluorescent lamp(often called “Energy-saving lamps” or “ESL”, although these are actually also LED bulbs). They are usually only an emergency or fix solution. Put it down!

The not so good news: For LED /OLED lighting there is no simple, clear truths and rarely a unique “true/false”-decision. You should know about some important values – much more than the incandescent lamps world – and also make sure your own, subjective impression of a LED lamp or light. Test reports such as here on the blog help unfortunately limited because each person differently perceives light and judged.Sounds confusing, and is for many.

The EU eco – label is not much help

Not much help here, by the way, is the new EU eco – label, ranging from the worst step “E” to the best “A++”. On the contrary. It prefers namely according to my past experience and calculations as a whole the weaker LED lamps as well as very bright models with low-light quality. Usually, a higher energy efficiency is namely bought through “cooler” color temperatures or unnatural reproduction of (skin) colors.

You should make depends on your purchase decision so not alone by the eco- label. LED lamps for the “lighting” are already at least at level A, and at complete LEDs without interchangeable modules the corresponding sticker (pictured left) indicates unfortunately only a range of ‘A – A++’ – without regard to the actual efficiency of the luminaire. As had the Commission apparently a good intention does not consistently light meant.

What do you have so far?

Let’s see first what is lit at the time in your home. Is it “pears” and spotlights in individual lights? Or complete 12-volt cable systems? Dangle as hanging lamps from the ceiling with multiple light sources? Do you have floor lamps or ceiling wash light with halogen rods in it? Put in some rooms not only despicable switch and dimmer on the wall? It is likely a wild mixture of all of this and more – what just so has accumulated over decades.

The first question is: Should that stay way? Do you want to replace only the different bulb, halogen or compact fluorescent lamps by low power LED light? And the light to exactly so look after the conversion as before? Yes? Then give away many of the new opportunities that can provide Illumination though, are but an ideal “retrofit”-customer.No? Then you may skip the next part and below read more.

The 1:1 retrofit conversion

See all their previous lamp types exactly at: what’s on it, as see the incandescent and halogen lamps out? Watt, voltage, shape, type of base – these are the most important evidence for traditional light bulbs.

So an it “light bulb” (picture on the right)can have for example an E27 screw base, eat 60 Watts and like 230 Volt alternating voltage. Also lights up pretty “warm white”, very true to color and round.

That would be translated into “LED German”: you need a pear-shaped E27 LED lamp with built-in transformer/rectifier for 230 Volt direct connection, approximately 800 lumen luminous flux, approx. 2700 Kelvin color temperature, a Color rendering index of at least RA 80 (RA 90 and higher, it would be even better) and a “half value angle” of over 240 degrees.About two-thirds of a full circle, where it creates the most brightness – around it is darker. If you want to have it bright especially towards hoods (mounted about hanging over’m dining table), then meet even 160 degrees and at least 600 lumens. Evidence for other incandescent wattage are in the EU comparison chart links.

You may have a few halogen lamps with two thick or thin metal pins below it. If “230 v” on it, are the mostly GU10 – or G9-“High voltage”-spots, for “12 volt” GU5. 3- and GU4-“low-voltage”-lamps. Which have almost all something in common: you need between 20 and 50 watts of power, shine a little “cooler” than incandescent bulbs, so around main beam angle 35 degrees and deliver beyond ‘ a good amount of flare.

Their LED’s successor do it somewhat more concentrated and longer-range. It could be so, that you the light cone of a 35 ° LED spots for the desired purpose to appears narrow and long (in the picture above the light image of a 5-Watt model ledon). Then you be happier with a 40 – or even 60-degree Spotlight. There are even very broad bright LED spotlights with 120 degree – then but logically no spots are more “Accent lighting” (pictured top right so a 4-Watt OSRAM lamp).

The higher the Kelvin, the “colder” light

At the temperatures you can refer 2600 to 3000 Kelvin at the range, if you prefer a similar light color like that of incandescent or halogen lamps. The higher that number, the “cooler” looks light. In the direct view of it won’t happen anyway otherwise you as that the halos. It is important but how the illuminated objects or walls. There you’ll see before little difference at ordinary lamps. And if you do, you get mostly quickly used. Some may even “colder”, neutral light (from CA. 4000 K) rather than the “fun zlige” of the old power guzzler.

And how it looks with the brightness? Since the rumor that the cabin with LED spots will remain too dark holds Yes partly stubbornly. You had so much less lumens as the good old halogen spotlights. That’s true sometimes, nothing but doesn’t. Because such lamps with directional effect it’s less on the luminous flux, but more on the light intensity. It is in can delas or cd assessment and refers to the solid angle, the spot you want to illuminate. And what I wrote earlier about the bundling of LED light? Right, which is narrow and focused – is lost or in corners less light in the lamp, where you don’t need it.

LED chips not about shine

What is it? LED Chips such as this “Cree” module (picture at left) are point light source and no round lamp like filaments in their old lamps. Most have made door-to-door around the 120 degree beam angle.When a manufacturer so wants to build a round bright LED lamp, he needs light several of these things, in different directions – best combined with a distribution optics and/or spreading discs.

Who needs a narrower angle, uses lenses before the chips and get a nice, narrow cone of light with little losses (pictured below left with a 7-Watt Osram Spot). Or he combines that with a faceted reflector in the light and so nearly mimics the light image of halogen spot (bottom right a verbatim “diamond cut” ll2 from above).

How much lumens for which halogen watt numbers?

Approximate indicative values for 230-Volt Spotlights with approximately 35 to 40 degrees angle: 125 Lumens or 300 can dela range LED replacement for 20 Watt Halo, 160 lm or lm 390 cd for 25W, 250 or 700 cd for 35 W and 350 lm or 1000 w low-voltage halogen spotlights put cd for 50 more of the electricity into light to; that’s why you need to access higher when converting to LED: 200 lumen or 550 cd for 20 Watts, 300 lm and lm 800 cd for 30 W, 350 and 1200 cd for 35 W and 600 lm or 1600 cd for 50 W.

You know what? The increase is not linear, but corresponds to an upward curve always steeper. Halogen lamps are not namely with rising performance of more efficient LED lamps usually. In many cases, but also slightly lower values can range; theCorresponding EU comparison table stacks at PAR16 (high-voltage)- and MR16 (low-voltage)-Strahlern consistently deeper, because here the lumen at the end of the rated life serve as a basis. It is never darker than before the conversion when choosing the right LED.

Only with “AC-DC” it rocks properly

12-volt lamps (pictured right GU5. 3-“Ledare” model from IKEA) there may be trouble with your existing external transformer. What you should note there read in detail in this post or in the article”Which transformer is right?” from the LEDON-“Light of knowledge”-series.

In short: If you buy low-voltage LED light source, take the best which marked “AC-DC”. Has nothing to do with the same hard-rock band, but means that the lamp with AC and DC voltage comes clear.You ever have one of the most common transformer problems by the jaw. High-voltage spots can work directly with the normal household current, because an electronic ballast with transformer, Rectifier, etc inside the housing. Mostly, it’s the smoother option for conversion to LED lighting.

Not every dimmer makes with the changeover

Then, the thing with the brightness would be. For this you need LED lamps are marked explicitly as “dimmable” anyway. This alone is not enough but unfortunately. If you, a dimmer stuck in the wall, he can handle probably very well with incandescent and halogen lamps. For this he built Yes anno going. He could however get a frightif you suddenly serve him LED spotlight – and then begins a lively flickering, flashing, orwhirring may.
Sometimes a second try with a different brand of LED is successful; Unfortunately only the exchange of the dimmer against a relatively expensive LED suitable model with adjustment screw will often (in the picture on the right to a RECOM -‘ REDIM’). Thus, you can more accurately adjust the new lamps to the dimmer and rules over a wider range of brightness.

Lots of retrofit options

If you want to know more about other types of socket, you look at this post about LED retrofits. In which also other special articles are linked – for example, about thereplacement for R7s halogen rods, or for the old, flickering fluorescent lights as they often are found in ceiling wash lights,.
There are now, by the way lots of LED lamp models that fit in the old versions, but can – deliver a very different, lighter and sometimes flexible, remote light, for example, with “neutral white” or “cold white” color temperature. It is advisable for concentrated work and other areas, where it must not “homely and warm” look.

The total transition to integrated LED lights

Rather than replace individual bulbs, you can replace all lights in your home with LED technology. This is considerably more expensive, but has many benefits – especially, if you’re planning a total renovation or even a new building anyway. Normal, traditional lamps can be like LED lights which are not as flexible and versatile. Now you may suddenly very individual and partly away from or implement gestures-controllable light ideas that were previously impossible – in many shapes, temperatures, brightness levels and distributions.

Experience has shown that even less space and temperature problems than LED retrofits, which must cope with the limitations of lamp holders from the 19th and 20th centuries have lamps that were designed from the start for LED or OLEDmodules integrated. Also, the LED chips are selected more carefully, so that a multi- engine light not with recognizably distinct colors of light shines. LED lamps them might well, however, that five copies of the same model have also five slightly different color temperatures :

Not without reason many experts the retrofit concept speak the will disappear at some pointfrom a “transitional technology”. Can take still a few more years.

It is nothing without light planning and ideas

Except a well-filled wallet, you need a detailed plan of your lighting needs, and a healthy confidence in the durability of the technologyfor LED luminaires complete and integrated concepts. Because still can replace any defective part even on most models even though there was already an industry standard called “Zhaga” for the assemblies.He just unfortunately not widely implemented, even though the Consortium has very many and large Member companies. At least Integrated LED lights with external driversoffer a part exchange option and relatively flexible compromise solution.

Theoretically, the limit for LED and OLED lighting is only the amount of your ideas and creative realization – best with the help of expert and the wide range of good on – or offline shops. Set, where only a single, round radiant lamp lit, for example, many smaller, various lighting accents. Instead of once 800 lumen luminous flux lm better look perhaps four times 200 to 250 or five times 150-200. Also controllable LED panels with approximately 120 degree beam angle on the ceiling or the walls are suitable as ambient lighting. Now there are even “Invisible” light-LED simulation.

Combine “directly” with “indirect”

Complement it with additional indirect lighting. Led “Strips” suitable may alsoremotely controllable colorfor this quite well. Lights like the new OSRAM “Arktika-P bio Lux” (PR picture on the right) that already from the outset in combination provide two light colors with “artificial sky”.
Take quiet some more overall brightness as before and Dim the lights if necessary.Specifically highlight special furnishings, plants, wall hangings, paintings or photos, creating “Islands of light”, playing with shadows and colours.

Simple glass, acrylic and acrylic sheets mutate with LED back lighting or directly to the edges of the modules to interesting light objects. A large part of the brightness is scattered then diffuse from the material, so that hardly noticed the individual light sources.

Additional opportunities for very thin, flat, bright OLED Panels, which are getting cheaper, more efficient and more popular in the next few years as a welcome addition to the led “Lighting”. There’s also first color controllable models (verbatim-PR pictured above the new generation of “Velvet” because) totally or partially transparent platelets, which turn only when the turn as the light source and with which one could pave the whole walls or window.

Do not save at the wrong end

Pay attention to a good colour rendition of “white” light (the best RA > 90), a balancedspectrum of colours and the light color. There, where it should be cozy, colour temperatures are up to approximately 3000 Kelvin okay; for kitchen, bath, stairwell,Desk or bench also Around 4000 K may be (“neutral white”); create sober station and work atmosphere, with “cold white”, daylight-like lights above 5000 K.

Important in the purchase of complete LEDs: dear to spend more for higher quality, otherwise you get angry perhaps for years about the lack of color fidelity, missing Dimmability, greatly decreasing brightness or even defective, non-replaceable modules.Finally, decades to keep the parts with average use. With discount stores- andhardware store lights at a bargain price, you will be not happy in the long term even if the deals are often tempting.

How is it with the “rated life”?

Normally expected operating per day with less than three hours. That makes about 1000 hours per year. A rated life of 20,000 hours of light with good brand-name products means that they deliver another 70 to 80 percent of its original brightness after 20 years. Another reason why you should calculate initially prefer a few lumens more than necessary. Thanks to the efficient LED technology save money yet at least 80% power compared to incandescent and halogen lamps.

Also important: The turning resistance. That should at least 50,000, better be another 100,000 on / off cycles. Just in the hallway or stairwell a dozen circuits are daily not uncommon – the electronics of the lamp do pass out not after ten years. Is that just like with LED lamps: not the light-emitting diodes are the most sensitive parts, but the other components.

And in the future?

Power is more expensive in the future each year, but LED and OLED technology getting cheaper and better. There are also new, reasonably intelligent “smart home”systems, the digital technology easily thanks also can be integrated into existing wiring and falling investment costs more comfort and savings offer.

Then can itself, for example, the light automatically turn on when it is needed, Dim or turn off completely when you don’t need it. For each day – and night-time can be programmed different lighting scenes, adapted to the particular occasion and need for brightness.

Over 90% of Electricity potential possible

You can save probably over 90% of the electricity in foreseeable time – when compared to traditional lighting – in conjunction with the special skills of LED light. And because modern control systems also have even heating, shutters, ventilation etc. in the handle, as a savings effect is in there in other types of energy, if also percentage low.

Buy only where at least information without grumbling and troubles all major duty dataand a few notes to get your new, energy-efficient lighting in any case. Of course, an expert and individual consultation would be even better. As you run however in many online and offline stores into the empty as when some veteran electric specialists in the home improvement and discount stores anyway. This blog can provide some small assistance, but replaced no professional lighting consulting. And she are usually not free – unfortunately.

Gallery

Light orange texture

Light orange texture

Source: flickr.com

Light orange texture

Light orange texture

Source: flickr.com